Outback Australia can be a harsh and unforgiving environment. Boiling hot days, chilly nights and dry, dry conditions explain why the majority of Australia's red centre is largely uninhabited. Yet its stark beauty, weird and wonderful flora and fauna and impressive geological features attract adventure seekers, tourists and the just plain curious year after year. With settlements few and far between, its easy to see which spots are favoured by visitors to the desert, and a little town called Coober Pedy in South Australia is usually high on their holiday to-do list.

The main income of Coober Pedy is derived from two sources, opal mining and tourism. Opals were discovered here in 1915, and since then 70 per cent of the worlds quality gem opals have come from this little Australian settlement. There are over 70 opal fields here, making it the largest opal mining area in the world. Initially attracted by the opals, the settlers here are a cosmopolitan bunch, with 45 different nationalities represented amongst the 3500 residents. Cultural diversity and tolerance has made the town a relaxed, easy going and friendly place to live, and this atmosphere quickly rubs off onto tourists.

While many visitors are attracted to Coober Pedy for its minefields and its rich opal mining history, there is something else very unique about this town that pulls in the visitors. The majority of its inhabitants, about 80 per cent, live underground rather than above it- which may sound primitive, but its not. The houses have all the facilities of a normal modern dwelling, with tiled floors, sealed walls and plumbing and electricity. Fondly known as 'dugouts', these make the Aboriginal name for Coober Pedy, 'White Man's Burrow', seem very fitting. There are underground hotels and motels, where you can enjoy the unique experience of eating a meal, having a drink and spending a night- all under the earths surface. The reasoning behind this style of accommodation arises out of the extreme temperatures that the town reaches. They can rise to 50 degrees in summer, and have been known to go higher than 60 degrees. The insulation of the ground makes it much more comfortable to live underground.

As a result of these unique living arrangements, many of the attractions of the town are underground as well. The 'Desert Cave' is Coober Pedy's most prestigious accommodation, and is home to the worlds only underground bar and gaming room. It also has a display of photographs and artefacts that pay tribute to the early settlers of the region and the trials and hardship they faced in the early days of settlement. Staying in this vein, you can visit the Underground Art Gallery nearby, which is home to some fine artworks from central Australia's best artists, and also has an amazing display of opals that will literally dazzle you.

The Ummona Opal Mine and Museum is also all built underground, and will educate, inform and entertain you with its displays on opal mining and the history of the area. Some of the worlds finest opals are on display here as well, and there is an Aboriginal Interpretative Centre and an underground home to view. Tours of the mine happen on a regular schedule as well.

The harsh yet beautiful backdrop of the Australian centre provides plenty of opportunities for daytrips to different attractions from Coober Pedy. One place that is only 33 kilometres away and easily reachable by car is the Breakaways, a striking example of an arid geological formation that has been sculpted by thousands of years of natures forces. High flat topped mesas meet the stony desert and are inhabited by strange flora and fauna typical of a desert climate. Definitely worth a visit.

Coober Pedy is about 850 kilometres from Adelaide, so many people pick up their hire car and travel from there up the Stuart Highway. Another alternative is to catch the Ghan railway from Adelaide, which will give you a different perspective on the outback countryside. However you decide to get there, once in Coober Pedy you will be amazed by this unique and very Australian town and will no doubt enjoy your outback South Australian experience.

Gavin Wyatt